Dammit. I’m gonna be late.
Trains are fucked every weekend from now until who-knows-when and I’m on a street corner in Bed-Stuy. The rain is coming down at Fraternity-Pledge-Piss magnitude and I’ve got an hour and a half to get to the South Bronx.
Local livery cabs won’t take me there so I start hoofing it to Flatbush ave in black suit and fedora in the hopes that I’ll catch a yellow cab there, and all I can think is
God. What a perfect day for a funeral.
Ars Subterranea is a self described group of artists, historians, and urban explorers working to create an intersection between art and architectural relics in the New York City area. And coming from a New York City Tour Guide, they know volumes more about architecture throughout the Boroughs than I do.
The cab dropped me at the corner of 161st and 3rd ave and i looked around feeling, (perhaps a bit ashamed) rather lost. The invitation said this intersection at 3pm sharp. I was 20 minutes early, so I took a stroll.
As a Brooklyn native, the Bronx fascinates me as a doppleganger to my own land of heritage. The Bronx was middle-class when Brooklyn was still Blue-collar with wide swaths of ghetto. In the Bronx, the streets bend and coast with more freedom and ambition. The crackhouses are more graceful, built with a more grand design in mind.
I wander past Chinese food joints and check-cashing spots in the rain, wondering what grand spectacle is going to make itself known when the clock strikes 3.
Then, like an idiot, I turn around and see it. the 6-story solid block of Marble, planted on the odd-shaped sidewalk island like it had been there since the days of the Leni-Lenape Tribe. Inside the slightly open gate, I see two men and a woman in dark formalwear standing at the entrance and I knew:
This is the House of the Marble Mistress.

Picture from Satans Laundromat
Which is the sentimental name that Ars Subterranea had given to the former Bronx County Courthouse built by Oscar Bluemner and Michael J. Garvin from 1905-1915
What followed was a hokie, but mindfully planned and very faithfully executed wake for another piece of New York’s architectural ephemera.
And ephemera is right. Search Google. Search Flickr. Wikipedia. None of them have anything on the former Bronx County Criminal Courthouse. There are images of the hideous modern monstrosity that was built to replace it in 1977, but the Marble Mistress. Well, if it weren’t for folks like Ars Subterranea, perhaps it would be lost to New York for everyone except those who wandered the streets of the Bronx Hub.
My good friend S.D. who runs his own urban explorators site greeted me and asked if I knew the building well.
Not at all, actually
She’s qutie lovely, isn’t she? he replied.
We were kept in the entry to play parlor games, such as Murder and Trivia until they were ready. 4 at a time, we were blindfolded and led to a dark, dank room, lit only by votives. We were made to wait for 15 minutes or so with only the sound of rain-water gushing through the gutters, and the musky chill in the air to accompay us.
We were then led into the main room. A somber guitar player strummed a somber tune with a soprano singing something heart-breaking beside him. The guests were all introduced as we walked in one by one and then. . . the casket.
A full-size chrome (i think) casket was carried in by six pallbearers. Inside: Concrete and steel. And from the stairs in the corner, our theatrical Master of Ceremonies told us the story of the old Courthouse and Prison.
I wish I could relay some of this story to you, but I cannot. I couldn’t hear him over the rainwater and grew bored after ten or so minutes.
BAH! These urban sentimentalists! I thought They weep and moan for things long after their use has been exhausted. Would you stand in the way of all progress?? I wish to say, but hold my tongue. This is a somber occassion.
I took the opportunity to wander the cracked and crumbling stairwells of the majestic old Courthouse with my friend M.G. and caught a sneak-peek of the celebration room, where a birthday cake lay in waiting! And some sort of strange contraption consisting of a razor-scooter-powered light and music projector
What’s this? I thought. . .
As urban planning would have it, the majestic Marble Mistress, was not being torn down, but renovated! Into what we don’t know, (Hmph! Probably Condos! one guest grumped cynically) but this is not a death, but a renaissance. And thus, we celebrated.
Ars Subterranea, in it’s many branched-out forms through New York and other cities around the world are a necessary collective:. To remember, to preserve, and to explore abandoned urban sites, for it’s intrinsic stories, memories and ghosts. For many involved, it becomes a passion. (Some say, an addiction. . .)
And of course, When Google fails you, there’s always someone on the underground to take those photos you’re looking for. Thanks for the heads up, S.D.!